Wait! Don’t start yet! Put some –appropriate- music on first!
And we hopefully reached the last chapter of this Parisian fashion week with Issey Miyake, AF Vandervost, Gosia Baczynska, Masha Ma and Rahul Mishra. And I can not wait for the next prêt à porter!
An absolute darkness prevails in the room Ephemere Tuileries. White balloons that ascend slowly and descend quickly, opened the show by giving us the feeling of a musical wind. The bright screens of mobile phones seem like brilliant stars in the dark sky. Six figures in white outfits appear on the catwalk’s horizon with elaborate hats like creatures from another world, far away from here … (oh Hans Christian Andersen woke up with me too). If you have attended any of the previous show of Issey Miyake, you know that this is not a simple fashion show, but a real performance. The artistic director of Miyake, for another year in a row called the Japanese musician Ei Wada to introduce us musically to the “creative force of the wind” which was the title of the collection. But take out of your mind anything you imagine about it. This is a live soundtrack, where helium balloons attached to a magnetic strip, similar to those found in a tape recorder, produce music by magnetism and buoyancy. In the beginning, white with a futuristic touch dominates, then gives it’s turn to colorful outfits. At the end, Miyamae appears in the catwalk with his characteristic little jump. A talented “youngster”, 37 years old, fan of Greece and it’s intense natural color.
Smokes inundate the scene creating a nihilist atmosphere at the beginning of the show. But within this misty landscape, an harmony exists, a beautiful oppositional right atmosphere. I think I am in the vast grasslands of Louisiana. I am waiting for Rust to get in the scene, saying any of his caustic quotes, but in his place appears a sleek creature with a parachute wrapped around it like a dress. She is walking slowly on the runway, straight ahead, she reaches the photographers and lost in the darkness … The majestic signature of AF Vandevorst, envisioned a story about a woman pilot who falls with his parachute in a terra incognita to start exploring. The collection introduces a dark aggression. Totally logical because of it’s military character. The tones are khaki, gray and black. Suddenly the music becomes more intense with doses of East. White and red of fire “hit” my retina. Through the models’ faces we can see the dynamism of a woman who travels alone and she is not afraid of anything. And then it is heard loudly: “Lord Jesus Christ, Son of God, show mercy on me.” From which door I entered the House of God? Did I mention True Detective before? Write a mistake. Probably I am at the Borgias. I listen to the prayer in Greek from a female voice with a foreign accent, which closes the show. The first model is back with his tail dress-parachute dragged majestically throughout the catwalk.
The show was scheduled for the impressive Hotel de Monaco, the Polish Embassy and the residence of the Polish Ambassador. Gosia Baczynska, you spoil us! The first thing that I notice when I walk in the room of the show, is the pure white carpet that has been laid for the models to walk on it, with black words … “Work only on a thing at a time until you finish” (That say it again!), “When you can not create you can work.” Ok, I got it! The 11 rules of the American author Henry Miller. The show begins, Baczynska is playing with the darker side of the hot weather and really it’s ok, I like it! It is a patchwork of delicate lace, transparency, gold and black tones. The pattern with the letters appears on the models’ bodies and some of the creations of the designer. We are talking about street art chic!
I enter a garage in rue Turenne. But wait, this is not a garage anymore. It is an urban garden. I see some beauty items hidden among the concrete. The woman of Masha Ma enters the garden with heavy eye makeup wearing earthy tones, against urban background. The collection is 70’s with a few glimpses of 60’s. A fine combination of chic and sporty elements gives this flexible look that a woman needs, me and you, who explores femininity with modern ways.
To be honest, I did not know anything about Rahul Mishra (apart from his Indian origin) since this is the first appearance of the designer on the catwalks of Paris. I watch him as every new “blood” (the similarity between me and the Cullen family is symptomatic) without having read anything before, a tabula rasa, laid only in the sense that his collection offers me. The music starts and carries us into a fairytale. Models seem like princesses of mythical kingdoms. Mishra gives woman transparency and embroidery. It combines a normal jacket with a skirt with slides and embroidered geometric or floral motifs and vice versa, and makes a pleasant reversal. Elaborate embroidery combined with simple silhouettes. His creations are more than enough for me to have the will to learn more about this designer who caused a stir, when he left with this year’s International Award Woolmark, leaving behind Houses like Altuzarra and Silbling.
If you follow me on Instagram (@polinetta_) you might also noticed some of these photos that are always on my fashionable dreams…
Photos taken by me
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